Westford woman raises chickens for 'green' lifestyle

By Hiroko Sato
Mon Jan 25, 2010, 08:42 AM EST

WESTFORD -- Beef, it's what's for dinner. But what do you know about that steak or burger filling your plate? Did it live in a filthy, crowded feed lot and eat grain and corn, laced with hormones, antibiotics and other not-so-good stuff before it was butchered? Or did it graze on grass and live humanely before meeting its end in a certified slaughter house?

Those questions prevailed Sunday at "Grass-fed Beef: Talk and Tasting," the first in the Westford Farmers Market's 2010 Winter Program Series at First Parish Church United.

And locally-grown, grass-fed beef came out the winner during the lively, two-hour session.

Littleton-based Springdell Farm's beef was the star attraction, done up delectably by Chef Paul Callahan of the Herb Lyceum at Gilson's in Groton. Callahan prepared tasty cuts of Springdell beef, ranging from rare, herb-encrusted boneless rib roast to braised oxtail, curry brisket and a "mystery" meat that turned out to be surprisingly tender beef heart.

"The first time I tried grass-fed beef it was like 'wow.' You can't believe the difference in the meat," said Callahan, who has worked at L'Espalier and Sel de la Terre, both in Boston.

While talking, he trimmed the 8-pound roast, cutting it into two smaller "baby" roasts, tying it with butcher's twine and coating it with a mixture of white sage, marjoram, thyme, basil, tarragon and rosemary picked fresh that morning from Gilson's herb greenhouses.

"The fat is homogenized in the meat into a perfect texture. It's very exciting working with meat like this," he said.

The Robinson family -- Bob, Paula and daughters Jamie Cruz and Jodee Robinson -- who own Sprindell Farm looked on proudly as Callahan worked with their beef.

They'd always grown vegetables, said Bob, who grew up on a dairy farm. But six years ago, they decided to try beef farming, raising Black Angus cattle for meat.

"Angus is a great breed that does well on grass. They have a good carcass yield and grass-wise yield a better cut of beef," he said.

In addition, noted Paula, "Angus are hardy and tolerant of New England weather. They have a thick hide that protects them from the elements. They are good mothers, who calf easily and have nice birthweight calves."

The Robinsons currently raise 80 head of Black Angus cattle on 150 acres they lease from Gibbett Hill in Groton. They hope to expand to 200 head if they can obtain more acreage.

"They wander on 150 acres, stress-free, with plenty of water holes. The grass is rich in nutrients. And in the winter, they eat hay from grass we have grown," said Bob.

Unlike feed lot cattle, who go to slaughter in 14 months, Springdell cows take 24 months to finish, with no hormones or antibiotics used in the process to fatten them faster.

"We are determined to sell the best beef," said Bob Robinson.

"And we're committed to a good quality of life for our animals -- unlike in feed lots, where they are kept in bad conditions, stand in their own manure and have hormone and insecticide tags in their ears," said Paula Robinson.

Cows should eat grass, noted Bob Robinson.

"It's their natural food, and they get more out of grass than they do grains and corn. It takes me 10 months longer, but it's a better product and you know where it comes from," he said.

Grass-fed beef is less fatty and has a different texture.

"We like to eat it cooked rare and simply prepared," said Jamie Cruz.

Callahan's preparation affirmed that. Each sample was delicious, enhanced with herbs and light cooking. Even the beef heart proved tender.

"I like to cook it rare and slice it thin like roast beef," said Callahan.

Springdell Farm's beef is available at the farm stand located at 571 Great Road, Littleton, which will re-open April 1. It is also available at the summer-long Westford and Groton farmers markets. Customers may order half or whole sides of beef from Springdell. Call 978-486-3865 or visit www.springdellfarms.com for info.

Upcoming Westford Farmers Market winter programs include "Backyard Chickens Workshop 101," with chicken experts Terry Golson and Tom Dougherty on Sunday, Feb. 21, at 4 p.m., free. Winter Indoor Salad and Herb Garden Workshop with Jodi Gilson of Gilson's Greenhouses in Groton on Sunday, March 7, at 5:30 p.m., $3, pre-registration required. Visit Web site at www.westfordfarmersmarket.com. Workshops at First Parish Church United, 48 Main St., Westford.

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